Cycling in Big Sur
8 April 2007 | touring, how-to, travel | No Comments
Yesterday, a friend of mine from Austin, Texas gave me a call to ask me where he and his wife could stay in Big Sur, and instead of simply calling him back I figured that I would write an entry for all those interested in spending some time in Big Sur.
I’ve cycled through Big Sur twice on my way from San Francisco to Los Angeles and this stretch of Highway One is by far my favorite section of the journey. First, I’d like to meet some specifics of where to stay. There are five types of accomodations in Big Sur: places that you stay for free because you know someone that owns a piece of Big Sur (the best!), public parks with campsites, private campsites, motels and cabins, and exclusive spas. Oh! And the sixth type which is spiritual monasteries.
I’ve stayed in each type down there except for exclusive spas. Don’t waste your time with these unless your recovering from plastic surgery, and you’re a high-profile but fading starlett from the Southland. An example of this exclusive spa is the . I was amazed to find this sanctuary on my first ride through Big Sur. The spa is on a large but artfully hidded compound, and the only way I knew it was there was that a small sign announced it.
Motels and cabins are the easiest to come by along with private camp grounds. They range in price from $20 for a campsite facing the Big Sur River to $80 for a nice, simple room at Ripplewood Inn. I stayed in the Ripplewood Inn on a bike ride I did in 2002. The room was a 1940’s style wood paneled affair straight out of a Twin Peaks episode. The Ripplewood Inn also runs a fantastic restaurant which serves the best breakfast in the area.
The main public campsite is Pfeifer Big Sur State Park. The park also has a beautiful but expensive Inn, and I highly suggest avoiding the Inn and "roughing it". In fact, you could just pull up on your bike and plop down at the campsite and call it a day. The river and the mild weather in the valley makes this spot perfect for an outdoor sleep. Also, thispark has several trailheads for somefantastic hiking. Here’s a tip: ask about the hike to the hot springs! There is no documentation in the brochures about this hike, but those in the know should go. I warn you that it’s a treacherous day-long hike to the springs in the park, but the hike is worth it.
The best spot to stay in Big Sur is often at someone’s piece of paradise. My fiance sweetheart, Stacey, works at City Lights Publishing in San Francisco. Her boss, the poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, has a little cabin in the Bixby Canyon. I’ve only managed to get down there once with Stacey and our friends, but I was almost brought to tears. Twice in my life, I’ve crossed the Bixby Bridge on my bicycle. The bridge hovers several hundred feet over the most pristine pieces of beach I’ve ever seen. Both times I crossed that bridge, I daydreamed of being on that beach as I looked down on it. And then, one day, thanks to Stacey and Lawrence, one of my life dreams was realized. I’ll try to find some pictures to post!
And finally, for those more spiritually minded than myself, there are a couple of different monastic retreats. There is a budist retreat which I haven’t been to but looks fabulous, and an Aruvedic retreat. I don’t know what these people do, but for 50 bucks you get to stay in a pyramid overlooking the ocean and wear ancient Egyptian hats. Don’t ask me why.
So what is there to do? Hiking is the one of the most popular pastimes. If you want night life, there is a fantastic road house in the town of Big Sur. This is not a road house ala cheesy chain steakhouse next to the mall. This is a real roadhouse, so if you dont like being around rowdy hell’s angels then don’t go. I think the biker atmosphere is key to having fun there. The ownership has even made several effigies to the motercycle in the form of exhast pipe wall sculptures that adorn the roadhouse. I should also mention the large stone fireplace and $10 all-you-can-eat barbeque buffet at this roadhouse.
I guess I’m a bike freak because my favorite thing to do in Big Sur is ride to simply ride down Highway One. For even the most fit cyclist, a veil of fear drops over those who see the "no food no gas for 70 miles" sign that is posted just south of the town of Big Sur. In a car, this doesn’t seem all that interesting. On a bike, whoa! The fear is ratched up one more step the closer you get to the southernmost Big Sur town, Ragged Peak. By the way, There is nothing of Merit in Ragged Peak except really expensive power bars. If you’ve made it this far down on your bike, though, then you’ve passed through two of the most beautiful state parks in the country: Limekiln, and Julia Pfeifer Burns (not to be confused with Pfiefer Big Sur. The Pfeifers owned this whole area!). Stop at both of these park headquarters to learn a bit about the crazy history of this place.
The last thing I should say is this area has always been the haven for writers, and a stop at the Henry Miller Library is essential.
I hope this is useful. If I’ve neglected to add links to anything that sounds interesting then let me know and I’ll dig it out.
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